Next-Level Porchetta

Season the pork belly all over with 1 tablespoon of salt up to 24 hours ahead. Toast the fennel seeds and peppercorns in a dry frying pan for a couple of minutes, then pound with the garlic, herbs, a large pinch of salt flakes, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, the lemon zest and chilli flakes (if using) in a pestle and mortar to make a rough paste.

Lay the pork skin-side down on a board. Score the flesh in a criss-cross all over, then cut a 3–4cm strip of flesh from the longest edge closest to you, leaving only skin exposed — this helps the roll sit neatly. Massage the herb paste deep into the cuts and over all the flesh, then lay the strip of meat along the centre.

Roll the belly as tightly as possible from the uncut long side, with the strip neatly overlapping at the end. Tie firmly with butcher's string at 2cm intervals. You can refrigerate this for up to 24 hours at this stage.

When ready to roast, heat the oven to 160°C / 140°C fan / gas 3. Sit the porchetta in a large roasting tin (on a rack if you have one). Rub the remaining oil over the skin and sprinkle with salt. Roast for 3 hours, basting with the rendered fat every 30 minutes after the first hour.

Crank the heat to 240°C / 220°C fan / gas 9 and roast for a further 20–30 minutes, checking every 10 minutes, until the skin is blistered and crackling all over. Rest for at least 10 minutes. To make a light gravy, pour most of the fat from the tin, leaving the caramelised bits. Add the white wine and let it bubble on the hob for a few minutes, then season. Carve into thick slices and serve in rolls with chutney.